Cane Dynasty
Thunderdome Survivor
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2013
- Messages
- 19,983
The measurement referenced in OP wasn't made by a NOAA buoy, but by a satellite-based altimeter (which makes quite good elevation measurements). Notice that the wave heights in the pass in question ranged from 59 feet to 83 feet. Those might seem unbelievably large, but the wind-wave interaction at play here makes such values reasonable.
Below is an animation produced using images from the GOES geostationary satellite. Notice that the storm is cyclonic (counterclockwise rotation in the northern hemisphere). The wave measurements in question were made in the storm's northeast quadrant, where waves generated by the storm are propagating in the same direction as the local wind forcing.
Now- the 'trapping' being mentioned. Yesterday, the storm was moving at about 16 mph (a little under 7 meters per second). That's approximately the phase speed (wavelength divided by period) of a deep water ocean wave with a 4.5-second period. In simple terms, the storm is closely following the waves that it's generating, dumping enormous amounts of kinetic energy into the ocean. The 50-80 foot wave heights are representative of this confluence of factors.
I **** near didn't understand one word of that. But I think you are calling ********* as well.